Kwajalein Local Government Office, Ebeye island, Kwajalein Atoll, The Marshall Islands

(December 27-30, 2025) Few people have heard of Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands. I was one of them until I read Walter Isaacson’s biography of Elon Musk in 2023. One of the islands in the Kwajalein Atoll served as SpaceX’s primary launch site for the Falcon 1 rocket. Today, various islands in the atoll house U.S. military bases.

We visited Ebeye Island to complete our customs clearance for the Marshalls. Ebeye is a small but highly populated island. Like most of the Marshall Islands, its average elevation is only about six feet above sea level.

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A close look at low tide revealed many names carved into the surface. I believe these belong to the soldiers who were here decades ago preparing for the nuclear tests—a quiet, fading memorial to those who served on this island.

(December 22 to 25, 2025) When I started sailing in 2014, John told me, “I want to sail to Bikini Atoll and kiteboard there.” At the time, I thought it was a joke. Yet, here we are—we actually visited Bikini. As they say, “Where there’s a will, there’s a way.”

A permit is required to visit the atoll.

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Church on Rongelap Island, Rongelap Atoll, Marshall Islands

We enjoyed great downwind sailing from Rongerik Island (an uninhabited island) to Rongelap Island—an island where only three locals currently live and work.

On the way, we caught a Mahi Mahi. When the fishing reel drag let out a sudden, rapid sound, John shouted, “Fish on!” The cats became motionlessly focused. I quietly said, “Oh no.” Gaffing the fish is usually my job, and I was relieved that it worked on the first try this time. It seems the trick is to gaff behind the gills.

Rongelap Atoll is about 75 miles from Bikini Atoll;

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Beach on Rongerik Island, Rongerik Atoll, the Marshall Islands

An uninhabited Atoll! We were the sole human beings during our stay. There is no airport or pier. I read that some Bikini islanders were temporarily moved here by the U.S. Government so Bikini could be used for nuclear tests in 1946. Despite its history, I can say this is the most beautiful island I have ever seen.

Approaching the anchorage, we were surprised by many friendly birds hovering over the boat. Stepping onto the beach for the first time, countless birds in the blue sky flew over us,

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sv Bad Bunny at Jibal Island Anchorage in Likiep Atoll, the Marshall Islands

Sailing from Maloelap to Likiep Atoll took longer than we planned. It was good sailing in the beginning, but the wind slowed down directly behind us. We dropped the sails and motored half of the distance.

As we arrived on land, we met the acting mayor and showed our permit. There are more people living in this atoll than I thought: about 400 people including 50 students. Many dogs barked and followed us, but they seemed to be mellow.

We visited the school.

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Drying Coconut Meat (Copra), Taroa Island, Maloelap Atoll, the Marshall Islands

The Marshall Islands are vast, featuring many beautiful atolls, each with multiple islands. Few sailboats visit due to the distance, and local boating facilities are scarce. Our main reason for being in the Marshalls, however, is John’s wish to visit Bikini Atoll.

In Majuro, the capital, we applied for permits to visit selected atolls. The authorization required three official signatures: the Internal Affairs Office, the Mayor of the Atoll, and the Chief/Owner of the Atoll. Some approvals were quick, others slow. It took us about three weeks and numerous office visits to secure all five authorizations.

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