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December 8th, Panamanian Mother’s Day in Suledup Island, San Blas

Rainy and cloudy! It felt cool and nice. In the mist, a village chief with four young men came to our boat. I noticed a young man wore a thick winter jacket while another man was without a shirt. They motored their dugout boat from a village, 10 miles away in order to care for their crop in this area. The chief wrote a receipt after we paid $10 for staying at the anchorage and explained that it covers staying at the nearby islands as well.In the afternoon, as the sun appeared, we decided to go to the island. The sun helps us to see the bottom of the water when approaching a new location.

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The Scots in Puerto Escoses in San Blas in 17th Century?

Entering the ‘Puerto Escoses’ (Meaning ‘Scottish Port’ in Spanish) anchorage needs careful attention. We found charts are sometimes not exact. On a guide book, it mentioned a small rock (3 feet high) sticking out on the water. We definitely didn’t want to hit this rock. ‘I see the rock. It is over there’, John shouted. We are relieved but we still had to watch the bottom approaching the anchorage. What if the boat hits a rock… Is it going to sink? Most likely not but how would we fix the problem, if any? We don’t need any of these ifs… No one lives in this area.

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Puerto Perme/Anachucuna, First Guna Village We Visited

We entered Panamanian waters after motoring from Colombia. I should say we are now in the Guna Indian Reservation area. In 2011, the Gunas managed to get the Panamanian government to recognize them as the Guna people. There is no ‘K’ in the Guna language. Now, more people use ‘Guna’ instead of ‘Kuna’ or ‘Cuna’. I read that the Gunas prefer their land to be called ‘Guna Yala’ instead of ‘San Blas’.

We are taking an off-the-beaten route visiting different Guna Indian Villages on the way to Panama Canal. Our first stop, the southern Guna village is ‘Anachucuna’ in Puerto Perme.

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Sleeping with Jungle Sounds in Sapzurro, Colombia

Overnight sailing from Tintipan Island to Sapzurro was so pleasant. We were thrilled that there was enough wind to sail even though we had to motor for a couple of hours at the beginning. Sapzurro is located at the tip of Colombia right on the border of South America near Panama (Central America). There are no cars in this village. Visitors access here by foot or by boat. According to the ‘Moon Travel Guide’ book, this town suffered greatly from drug-related violence during the 1990s and early 2000s. We felt safe and enjoyed cool forest fresh air at night even though it was warm some nights.

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The World’s Most Crowded Island, Santa Cruz Islet in Colombia

At Tintipan anchorage, I found out about the world’s most crowded island. Let’s say that my walking step size is one meter. The best way to describe the size of this island is that the length is 200 steps and the width is 60 steps. Multiplying the length (200 meters) and the width (60 meters), the total area of this island is 12,000 square meters. There are over 1,200 people living on this island. Basically, one person’s living space is about the size of three steps by three steps. It is not far from Cartagena, less than 50 nautical miles.

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Anchorage: Peaceful Night or Wild West?

The moonlit and the sound of a remote drum woke me up. After sleeping deeply and sweetly, I felt refreshed and recharged when I opened my eyes. I decided that I should get up and look out in order to see what was going on with our three boats. We had left Santa Marta Marina with two other sailboats from France and sailed/motored to Puerto Velero yesterday. While sailing together, we periodically spoke to each other on the radio. I thought that it was very nice to listen to the French converse on the VHF. John sometimes teases French people by saying that the best French food ever invented,

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Seeing Colombian Doctors in Santa Marta

We don’t carry health insurance as good US health insurance is very expensive and we are away from the US while living and traveling overseas. When necessary, we see a doctor or a dentist in whatever country we happen to be in.

One of our plans during our stay in Colombia was to do our physical exams. After arriving in Colombia, I looked for an English speaking doctor in Santa Marta. Either because Santa Marta is a small city; or I am too new in the city, I was not able to find any English speaking doctors. This was very unexpected.

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Start All Over Again!

We are in Colombia. A New Place! It’s time to start all over again. Immigration and Customs process (via Santa Marta Marina), getting Colombian money (Pesos), learning the local system, finding out the stores, getting to know new people, and etc. In all of our previous stops people were either bi, tri, or even quad Lingual, so getting information was pretty easy. Neither one of us speaks Spanish very well nor do the majority of the Colombians speak English.

Food prices have made our jaws drop here. We can easily get a good lunch for two to three US Dollars.

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Biggest Fish While Sailing to Santa Marta

As soon as the sun rose on August 29, 2015, we left Cabo de la Vela. It is about 150 nautical miles to sail to Santa Marta!

Local fishermen were already at sea. Leaving the anchorage, I was at the front of the boat to avoid catching the plastic bottles the local fishermen use for their fish trap floats. Those traps may be their only source for feeding their families and paying for their children’s education. We have not had much luck catching fish in the Caribbean for last 8 months so we almost gave up. Thinking back,

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Sailing from Curacao to Cabo de la Vela in Colombia

Day 1 (August 25, 2015): Rather in rush, we left Curacao at about 10 AM. The wind ranged from 15 to 20 knots throughout the day. Days earlier, there was a hurricane ‘Danny’ (later changed to tropical storm) in Atlantic which affected the trades weakening them and giving us a great weather window for Colombia. We took it! We heard this sailing route is one of the five most difficult sailing routes! During my watch schedule, I saw hundreds of dolphins playing around our boat following the waves. They stayed with us for more than an hour.
Night 1 (August 25,

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