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Entry Clearance, Roti Curry Chicken and Saoto Javanese Soup in Suriname

The Customs and Immigration clearance took us only a half day because we hired a special taxi service through the marina we are staying at. The taxi driver took us to the right locations: (1) the Maritime Authority Suriname (MAS), (2) Tourist Visa Issuing Agency, (3) Suriname National Bank (30 Euros or USD35 Tourist Visa Fee/Person), (4) Back to Tourist Visa Issuing Agency, and (5) Military Police/Border Patrol (for Passport Stamp).

Suriname is for me the most harmonious melting pot country among all the countries I have visited so far. Some people were originally from Africa, India, Java/Indonesia,

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Visiting Salut Islands in French Guiana and Sailing to the Suriname River

(January 9 to 10, 2018) The ruins of an old French Prison on the Salut Islands were interesting, especially the solitary confinement. I watched the old movie “Papillon”, as this is where he was imprisoned, and finally escaped. I understand many prisoners died because of the hardship in the tropics. Despite of seeing some cute jungle animals during a half day strolling on the island, I had enough of the island because it was hot and humid. We went to back to the boat.

A loud horn woke us up when we just started taking a nap in preparation for night sailing to Suriname.

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No Rental Car and No SIM Card in French Guiana

(January 10, 2018) Upon arrival in French Guiana, we cleared our entry at the Main Port (Degrad des Cannes). The Harbor Master near the anchorage kindly drove us to the French Customs Office. He also showed us a series of animal pictures we can look for in French Guiana: Jaguars, Monkeys, Birds, Snakes, and more. We were excited to meet the exotic jungle animals.

On Saturday, we hitchhiked to a town (Cayenne) to get a rental car. It turned out we needed an International Driver’s License. With a US Driver’s License, we couldn’t rent a car. We didn’t have enough time to get a SIM Card because they were closed for their long lunch hours.

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Sailing from Cabo Verde to French Guiana and Suriname – Day 14 (Arrived Safely! Huge Applaud Goes to Bad Bunny and Mother Nature!)

(January 4, 2018) No words can fully describe our current feelings. After safely arriving in French Guiana, South America; John asked me how many people I personally know who have crossed the Atlantic Ocean by a sailboat. I took a moment and said “Nobody except certain cruisers I have met.” Thank you all for wishing us a safe journey crossing the Atlantic Ocean.

From the channel entrance to the marina (Degrad des Cannes) is about 8 miles on the Mahury River. The river water looks like milk coffee or yellowish chocolate milk. It is so thick and creamy looking as it is mixed with a tremendous amount of soft yellowish silt.

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Sailing from Cabo Verde to French Guiana and Suriname – Day 13 (Losing Speed by Equatorial Counter-Current and Guiana Current)

(January 3, 2018) Finally, we have a nice angle of sail. No more rolling and no more pounding of downwind sailing with the unaligned wind and waves. Waking up, I found myself well rested and fully charged. What deep heavenly sleep can do for me!

According to our Garmin Charts, there can be a strong current running in this area. John didn’t think it would affect us much. We learned it the hard way. We have been sailing against the Equatorial Counter-Current and the Guiana Current. These currents flow toward West and North Westerly. It reduced our sailing speed 2-3 knots.

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Sailing from Cabo Verde to French Guiana and Suriname – Day 12 (French Guiana and Old Movie ‘Papillion’)

(January 2, 2018) The boat has been rolling even more than ever last night. It occurs vigorously especially when large waves from one direction meet big swells from the other direction. Trying to sleep on the boat was like trying to sleep while riding the Disney Rollercoaster Splash Mountain. I gave up sleeping and made a cup of coffee and went to the cockpit. Recently, the nights have been so beautiful with a soft full moon beaming on the ocean. I sat in a salty corner holding one hand on the cockpit entrance handle and keeping both legs on the corners of the stairs so I don’t slide side to side.

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Sailing from Cabo Verde to French Guiana and Suriname – Day 11 (Wish You Happy New Year 2018!)

(January 1, 2018) New Year’s Eve Wine Toast at sea! We joked about our New Year’s resolutions and started the New Year 2018 with a good laugh. In previous years, I used to go over my old resolution, review, and modify it to make a new one. Sailing in a rough sea, I postponed this task until we arrive at our destination because I want to be sitting down without rolling my body due to the heavy waves. One resolution for sure is “Diligently Keeping good habits and bluntly getting rid of bad habits!” John said his resolution is to drink no more than 5 bottles of rum in any 24 hour period,

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Sailing from Cabo Verde to Suriname – Day 10 (Sleeping During Sailing)

(December 31, 2017) For the previous two nights and days, we have rarely slept because the boat was moving like a crazy horse by confused seas. Despite putting cushions by my sides and wedging myself tight to sleep, have I rarely slept for two days. It is the loud bangs and whirly movement that has kept me awake.

In order to help myself fall asleep, I tried a deep belly breathing exercise; breathe in 4 seconds by inflating my belly, hold my breath for 16 seconds in the center of my body, and breathe out 8 seconds by deflating my belly?

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Sailing from Cabo Verde to Suriname – Day 9 (Sailing Heavy Weather)

(December 30, 2017) The wind has been blowing hard. We have been sailing with a double reef and a smaller size Jib sail. High waves frequently bang the side of the boat. It feels like someone hits the side of a house with a big sledge hammer. The sound also reminded me of a gun range. We haven’t had a peaceful moment to relax.

We previously met many sailors who cross this route. Everyone told us it was the easiest sailing trip. For us, it has been a very difficult trip. We are not sure why? Maybe we approached this trip with an easy mindset?

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Sailing from Cabo Verde to Suriname – Day 8 (Flying Fish on the Deck)

(December 29, 2017) High waves bring an occasional salt water splash into the cockpit; even worse, it dumped salt water inside the companion way this afternoon. It was unexpected. Not wanting any sticky salt water residue, I wiped salt water and cleaned with fresh water using a rag. We have been sailing between 6-9 knots with 8-11 feet waves and random swells beating us on the rear side. We are little off our course but it has been sailing smoother than when we used the jib pole.

Earlier, I made six Burritos with Salami because there were six Tortillas in a bag.

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